Snag Checklist

Outside the home

• Are the bricks of a consistent batch? This is very difficult to remedy; however it is possible for the builder to employ a brick doctor who can tint individual bricks to blend-in any colour batching.
• Are there any major areas of salt deposits on the brickwork? This is normal and should disappear over time. However excessive salt deposits (efflorescence) should be cleaned off with a pressure hose.
• Is the brickwork clean and free from major chips and mortar splashes? All mortar splashes should be cleaned off by high pressure hosing or using brick (acid) cleaner or both.
• Are the mortar joints evenly sized and finished? Is the colour of the joints consistent? Check the hardness of the mortar by trying to dig out a joint with a key.
• Check the condition of stone heads, cills or quoins. Are they free from damage? They can be repaired, but this is not always invisible and any damaged stonework may need replacing.
• Is the overall appearance of the brickwork acceptable? Bed joints level, perp joints plumb, and bonding regular.
• Are the soldier courses (brick on end) above window and door openings plumb (both ways) and clean?
• Have all the joints to the brickwork been filled? (putlog scaffold, profile irons at corners etc)
• Are weep vents fitted each time a cavity is bridged? Over lintels above window openings and doorways and above airbricks and built-in meter boxes. These should be evenly spaced and at 450mm centres (every two bricks)
• Is there a continuous DPC two courses (150mm) above surrounding ground level?
• Are airbrick ventilators fitted to suspended ground floors? These should be at 2 metre centres on two opposite sides. They are normally located one course below dpc level.
• Are meter boxes fitted correctly? (not loose) Is the meter box clean and undamaged inside and out?
• Are the expansion joints in the brickwork sealed with mastic?
• Have penetrations to the brickwork been made good and pointed? (At overflow pipes, extractor outlets and boiler flues.)

• Is self-coloured rendering smooth and even, undamaged and unmarked?
• Has render been cleaned off all other surfaces?
• Is vertical tiling damaged and misplaced?
• Is timber cladding adequately fixed and properly decorated or stained?
• Is PVCu cladding adequately fixed and clean?

• Has a topcoat been applied to all painted surfaces; and is the finish to a satisfactory standard?
• Have the window cills been finished off, including exposed undersides of the sill and ends?
• Have any factory applied finishes been damaged.... guarantee?
• Has excess or spilled paint been removed from glazing and/or brickwork?

• Do the gutters appear secure, have an adequate fall and are they falling in the right direction?
• Are the rain water downpipes plumb (vertical) and adequately fixed? (min 2m centres)
• Are all the rain water components in place? (ie gutter stop ends).
• Are the rain water goods clean, not scratched and free from sticky labels?
• Are there any visible leaks or blockages?
• Are manhole covers level with the surrounding surfaces - and do they fit properly?
• Manhole covers should be screwed down where fixing is provided.
• Small ‘dustbin’ manholes should not be more than 1 metre deep
• Are rodding-eyes positioned at end of drain runs?
• All pipework exiting the building should be sealed to prevent water ingress. Copper pipework passing through brickwork should be sleeved to avoid contact with mortar.
• Have all the extractor terminals been fitted?
  
  

Inside the home

• Is the surface of the plasterwork or plasterboard even and free from obvious hollows and/or bumps?
• Has the plasterwork been neatly finished off around pipes at radiators, light switches, and electrical sockets etc?
• Do any taped joints or corner beads show through the plaster skim or jointing?
• Is there any surface cracking? Shrinkage cracking is to be expected but your new house should be free from all cracking when you first move in and cracking larger than the thickness of a 10p piece at any junction should be attended to by the builder. See your NHBC “Guide to your new home” booklet
• Is the finish smooth?
• Are reveals at windows and door frames square with the wall and plumb (vertical)?
• Check that internal partition walls look plumb, straight and square.
• Is ceiling flat and free from cracks. Bumps and nail/screw pops?
• Is the coving complete?
• Are joints to coving to internal and external corners and on long lengths neat and invisible?
• Are there any holes or unfinished drylining or plastering �" particularly in cupboards and other awkward areas?

• Has every visible surface been decorated?
• Has the decoration covered the background? (no “grinning” through)
• Is all paintwork or decorative finish complete and free from blemishes?
• Are there any excessive paint runs?
• Has any paintwork been damaged or marked?
• Are all meters in skirtings and architraves neat and filled?
  

• Has the paintwork been finished off, including undersides of window boards?
• Are the window frames completely clean and free from dirt and dust �" especially the sliding hinges?
• Is the frame free from damage? Check the bottom of opening sashes as materials are often dragged through upper floor windows causing damage to soft or PVCu frames.
• Is the double-glazing free from scratches, paint splashes and cracks?
• Have the windows been neatly sealed on the inside of the frame/wall junction with white silicone?
• Is safety glass fitted to low level glazing? Look for a BS kitemark
• Do windows open and shut easily - and if locks are provided, are there keys for each window?
• Do all bedrooms have "fire-escape" windows that comply with modern building regulations?
• Do windows have trickle ventilators fitted and do they open and shut properly?
• Where Velux roof windows are fitted are they fitted at the correct height?

• Are external doors properly draught proofed?
• Do latches, locks and bolts work properly?
• Are the door handles stiff? Are hinges silent?
• Do doors open and shut properly? Are they loose in the frame (rattle) when closed?
• Are there any screws missing from the hinges, handles or lock plates?
• Is there an even gap between doors/frames?
• Have skirting door stops been fitted (where required) to prevent door handles hitting adjacent finishes?
• Is the paintwork complete, check for any chips or areas not fully glossed?
• Have the door edges been properly prepared (filled and rubbed down) prior to decoration?
• Have all fixings to door linings, stops and architraves been punched and filled prior to decoration?
• Are mortises in the door linings for the latches decorated?
• Are the doors or frames damaged? All dents, chips etc should be filled prior to decoration.
• Is there any paint on the door handles or hinges?
• Have the architrave edges been fully decorated especially where they are close to adjacent walls?
• Has the top edge to the architrave edge (at the head) been filled and decorated?
• Have all visible door top edges been fully decorated? All door top edges are not normally fully decorated as this helps the door to ‘breath’.

• Is the staircase fixed securely to the adjacent wall? Look for excessive cracking at the string/wall junction.
• Do the stair treads squeak or creak when traversed? (Especially on kite winders which will have been assembled on site.)
• Are spindles and handrails fixed securely and newel posts stable?
• Is the gap between the spindles less than 100mm?
• Are the handrails 900mm high?
• Are the treads even and level?
• Is there sufficient headroom? From the nosing pitch line vertically, there should be minimum of 2m clear.
• Has the staircase been decorated fully?
• Are all newels, newel caps (or acorns) free of raised grain, splits or other damage?
• Are the handrails free of damage and fully decorated?
• Are the walls in the staircase area undamaged and unmarked?